Travel Guide: Lake Iseo
While Lake Como is certainly the most well-known of the Italian lakes internationally, there are actually five major lakes spread across the northern most part of the country: Lake Maggiore, Lake Garda, Lake Como, Lake Iseo and Lake Orata (part of Lake Lucerne is also in Italy but it is mostly Swiss). Each of these large lakes has its own ambiance and feel and attracts a different type of visitor. We made Lake Iseo, arguably the most local and low-key of the bunch, our home base for a four day trip to the area.
{Get There}
The easiest way to get to the lakes is to rent a car in Milan and drive. Driving around the lakes and within the small towns along the shores can be a bit hair-raising and parking can be challenging so I would recommend getting as small a car as possible. Lake Como is the closest to Milan and is only about a 45 minute drive if you don’t hit traffic. Be prepared for a number of tolls along the road, most take credit card but having cash on hand will speed things along.
We stayed in the tiny town of Sulzano on the eastern shore of Lake Iseo at the Hotel Rivalago. Sulzano itself is really tiny, (just one stoplight!), but it is the easiest place to get the ferry to Monte Isola - the largest lake Island in south/central Europe. We also looked at Airbnb and would likely go that route on a return trip.
{See & Do}
Tour the Lakes: Each of the lakes is very different so I would suggest making time to at least see them all if your schedule permits. Lake Como attracts a very international crowd and is the most commercialized. Lake Garda is the largest lake and caters to predominently European tourists. Lake Iseo is the most local and not on the map for most international tourists. Most lakes have boat or ferry service that you can use to get around via water, though do check the schedules if you visit during the off or shoulder seasons.
Monte Isola: Situated in the middle of Lake Iseo, this is the largest lake island in the region, and a lot of fun to explore. Only service vehicles and moped/scooters are allowed on the island so to get around you either have to walk/hike or bike. Bicycles can be rented where the ferry drops off. This is also where many of the hiking trails depart from. If you're up for a hike, I highly recommend making your way to the Santuario della Madonna della Ceriola at the top of Monte Isola. The climb isn't too strenuous and the views as you wind you way around and up the mountain are unbelievable. Sardines and polenta, prepared in a variety of different ways, are staples of the local cuisine. There is also a local cured meat that is well known in the region. Check out this little shop in the main area of town for a variety of food items to enjoy on your hike or take home.
Fransciatorta Wine Region: Fransciacorta is a wine region just to the south of Lake Iseo and one of the other reasons we chose to base our stay at Iseo. Small, family owned and operated wineries dot the region and make for a lovely day or two of visits. One note, as most are very small operations you do need to book in advance if you want to taste the wines or take a tour at most locations.
There are dozens of vineyards and wineries in the region, but here are a handful we visited (or attempted to visit!):
Il Monsel
Monte Rossa
Ronco Colima
Ricci Cubustrano
BellaVista
Majolini
{Eat & Drink}
Mej, Sarnico - for delicious gelato on the lake!
Boehm Fiori, Sarnico
La Forresta, Monte Isola
Locanda al Largo, Monte Isola
Le Quattro Terre
Dispensa Pani e Vini
{Things to Know}
Summer season doesn’t really get going until early June and many things, like ferries and wineries, were still on limited spring schedules. That said, the summer season gets incredibly busy, especially around some of the more well-known lakes like Como.
{What to Pack}
You will see everything from casual beach attire to super glam outfits. However, this is Italy after all so the locals do tend to dress up more than you would usually see at a lakeside resort in the US. Easy separates, think linen pants with a tank for daytime and a light sweater for evening and breezy dresses will help you blend right in. Also, don't forget your swimsuit and hat!