Travel Guide: Lisbon
Lisbon has been on my travel list of a while and when the opportunity arose to head there for summer vacation we jumped at the chance. However, time got away from me before we left and I really didn't do the planning I like to do beforehand. Nevertheless, it all came together and we had a fantastic time which I think speaks to to the easygoing and very relaxed vibe we encountered throughout the country.
Overall, Lisbon reminded me of a more-affordable, more-authentic, less-crowded, and less-dirty Rome. So, if you are craving a beautiful, historic European city destination without some of the downsides of some of the more popular destinations, I would wholeheartedly recommend Lisbon. Yes, it is hot in summer and there are a fair amount of tourists during peak travel season, but it nowhere near as crowded and hot as it would be in Rome. Plus, I am sure if you went on the off-season, it would be even more enjoyable. Getting around in Lisbon is fairly easy, and I would really recommend you do not rent a car - traffic is a bit of a nightmare. Public transit is easy, cabs are inexpensive and most things are walkable.
Stay: Baxia House
We stayed in apartment 4A which is a two bedroom, (though the second was quite small and would probably only work for young kids), serviced flat. M originally read about Baxia House in Monocleand it was a highlight of our trip. From the amazing downtown Lisbon location, to the spacious rooms, to the funky yet modern decor, to the fresh breakfast that was delivered daily to the plentiful restaurant recommendations left from previous guests, the whole stay was wonderful and in my opinion far better than any hotel. I would definitely stay here on any return visits.
Things to Do:
Lisbon is a truly beautiful city with a rich history; a predecessor to modern European capitals, home to the Age of Discovery and an empire that once ruled much of the world. There is much to see and explore and I am sure we only managed to scratch the surface of it. Depending on the length of your stay, I'd recommend three to five days, my suggestion would be to spend your first day getting your bearings and exploring the downtown area, there are many smaller attractions and good shops in the area, then your other days to do the sites that are a bit outside the downtown area. The #28 street car is a great way to get around, especially to some of the sites on the outskirts. I've grouped the things to see below by geography.
Downtown:
Santa Justa Lift
Carmo Convent
Mercado de Ribeira
Praca Commercio
Avenida Liberdad
West of Downtown:
Torre de Belem
Jeronimos Monastery
Parado dos Descobrimentos
Electricity Museum
East of Downtown:
Castle of S. Jorge
Feira da Ladra (Flea market, Tuesday and Saturday only)
National Tile Museum
Alfama
Se de Lisbon
Eats:
The food in Portugal is definitely a highlight! I would say that in general, Portuguese food is more on the simple and hearty side, with a heavy emphasis on fresh, local ingredients, though there is a recent trend for more refined cuisine and fine dining especially in Lisbon.
Mini Bar - Another Avillez restaurant. Great for a date night. Head to the Barrio Alto Hotel for a cocktail first as you watch the sunset over the river. The cuisine is really inventive, lots of small plates that will keep you guessing. Also, great for people watching.
Sea Me - For seafood lovers. Great seafood restaurant right beyond the Largo de Camones. Would recommend for a business lunch or nice dinner. Fried cuttle fish was a standout! Yes, it is black and really unappetizing looking, but unlike anything you have ever had!
Barrio Alto Hotel - Grab a drink at the roof top bar and watch the sun go down. Word to the wise, its a small space so go early, or be prepared to get squished in the back corner behind a chain smoker. Just saying...
Garrafeira Alfaia - Wine bar we stumbled into after not being able to get a table at A Tasca do Chico. Little did we know, it was in Travel & Leisure a few years back and was the perfect place to have tapas and a bottle of wine.
Cafe a Brasiliera - Great spot for people watching and a coffee break with an interesting history. Don't expect amazing service.
Pasteis de Belem - Forget your diet, and have one, or two or of these amazing pastries They are a delicious blend of savory and sweet. Don't forget to sprinkle some cinnamon on top. Conveniently located just up the street from the Jeronimos Monastery, you will probably need a sweet treat after all that history. The line moves fast. Don't bother getting a table inside, just wait in line and get them to go.
A Tasca do Chico (Fado Bar) - I would recommend making reservations here if you want to see the Fado show. We went twenty minutes after they opened and when we asked if they had an open table the woman looked at us like we were nuts. There are plenty of Fado bars around Lisbon, mainly in
Alfama - This is the oldest district in Lisbon and definitely worth a visit, but this one had really great reviews and was close to Baxia house which is why we decided to try it out.
A Travesa - Beautiful spot for dinner in an old convent.
Shop:
A Vida Portuguesa - This is a fantastic, one-stop-shop for all things Portuguese! Think beauty products, home goods, food, paper goods etc.
Conserveira De Lisboa - Home to every type of tinned fish your heart could ever desire. Just go for a look if nothing else.
Sapataria Do Carmo - Only go if you have room in your luggage for a pair or two of new shoes! Everything is handmade in Portugal and really reasonably priced. If I had had room for more than one pair I probably would have bought them.
Solar Antique Tiles - Old (and new tiles), lots of them. Organized by century. Pick out something fun for your wall, or to use as a trivet etc.
