Travel Guide: Hong Kong
Hong Kong changes at a dizzying pace, yet underneath the glitz and polish, the old Hong Kong persists. Hong Kong often gets chalked up as another mega-city. And it is, but underneath the unique blend of old and new, it is unlike anywhere else. My advice is: go, soak it all in and return often.
There are countless options for accommodation in Hong Kong, however, hotels tend to be pricey and location is key. So I'd really recommend doing your research and seeing what works best for you. I'd recommend trying to stay on Hong Kong island if possible. If you end up staying on Kowloon, try and find a hotel close to a subway line or the Star Ferry.
{See & Do}
Victoria Peak: There are lots of ways to get up to the peak. If you're up for it, I would recommend hiking up and getting in your exercise while taking in the views. There are many different trails, but it seems that starting from Hatton Road is a good option. If hiking isn't your thing or the weather isn't the best, I'd recommend taking a cab up to the top (early is better) and then taking the tram down.
Man Mo Temple: This beautiful temple is an oasis among the hectic streets of Central. The hanging incense and lanterns make it a very unique and I find calming place to visit.
Star Ferry: Whether you take it purely for the novelty factor or you rely on it to get from Kowloon to Central, the Star Ferry is a Hong Kong institution and well worth a trip or two.
Mid-Level Escalators: For Hong Kong residents the elevators that connect Central to the mid-levels are more a necessity than anything else, some even commute (!) via the escalators. For tourists however, they are a great way to get your bearings in crowded, chaotic Central and provide some much needed relief for your feet!
Temple Street Night Markets: You could spend weeks exploring all the markets in Hong Kong, but for a fun evening experience check out the Temple Street Markets. In the evenings the pedestrian only streets come alive with stalls full of trinkets, and yes, a lot of junk. But even if the goods for sale aren't the best, the atmosphere is great.
Symphony of Lights: The world’s largest permanent light takes place every night at 8pm. 45 of Hong Kong’s major buildings on both sides of the harbour are lit up in a spectacular display of coordinated lights. If its a clear night head up to Ozone at the Ritz Carlton to have a drink and take in the show.
Hike!: Definitely one of the more challenging hikes I've done, the Twins is an amazing hike that takes you across three peaks on Hong Kong island. Starting from behind the Parkview residences, the entire trail is 4.8km and takes around 2 hours. Don't be fooled by the relatively tame first peak (Violet Hill), its 1,000 steps up to the second peak. After that, the third peak is tough but manageable and on the way down to Stanley Gap you're rewarded with the most amazing views of Repulse Bay and Stanley. Get there: Take a cab to Parkview and start from the marker below the entrance to Parkview Residences (cabbies know where this is). After, grab a cab to Repulse bay and grab an amazing lunch at Limewood.
{Eat & Drink}
Hong Kong takes its food very seriously and we had some truly wonderful meals there. Again, there are so many options to satisfy nearly every taste, but here are a few highlights.
Fish & Meat: The food here is really, really, really good and the atmosphere is spot on. Unsurprisingly the menu features mainly fish and meats, but there's something to please almost everyone.
Stockton:The first in a somewhat recurring theme during our time in Hong Kong, this bar is admittedly almost impossible to find. Located directly below Fish & Meat restaurant on Wyndham Street, you’ll have to go through the alley/apartment passageway around the corner (next to the hairdresser) and up a flight of stairs to find it. Once inside, the comfortable space and funky cocktails will make you glad you persisted.
Hutong: This amazing restaurant is styled like a traditional Chinese village and boasts some impressive views of Hong Kong island. The food is intriguing as well, the whole baked chicken was a crowd pleaser as were the tiger prawns.
Limewood: In Repulse bay, this beach front restaurant is pretty much my idea of heaven. The menu focuses on grilled seafood with some interesting influences. Order the fish tacos and a margarita and watch the waves role in. Hard to believe you're just minutes from one of the most bustling cities.
Linguini Fini: A quick and not-too expensive lunch with a great location just off the mid-level escalators, perfect when you’re wandering.
Yardbird: Chicken, chicken, and more chicken! Oh and some amazing cauliflower as well. Don't question it, just go. And go early as they don't take reservation. (Tip: love the spices they use? You can buy them to take home, just ask!)
Cafe Gray: This restaurant and bar at the top of The Upper House hotel above Pacific Place, is a current travel magazine/Instagram darling. Yet, its one of those places that more than lives up to its reputation. We went for brunch and the food, decor and views were amazing. I'd love to return for cocktails next time.
Teakha: This quaint tea shop was one of my favorite afternoon pit stops. Order a chai or try the iced lemon team (yum!) and grab a seat outside while you take a breather.
001: Hidden in the wet markets of Central, finding this place is no easy task, but its well worth the effort. Probably the coolest speakeasy bar I've been to, and the drinks are delicious as well. (On Graham St, between Wellington and Stanley. Look for the black door that has 001 on it)
Quniary: An easier find, but still charming cocktail bar in Central.
Places I'm bookmarking for next time:
Mido Cafe
Chilli Figara
Ozone
Shopping is a huge highlight in Hong Kong. It doesn't matter if you're looking for a new designer or knockoff bag, antiques for your home, a string of pearls or some new ceramics, Hong Kong literally has it all.
Vickie’s: Shoe shop stocks lots of different designs, and I believe you can even have a custom pair made. 3 Queen Victoria Street, Central, Hong Kong
Loveramics: This darling shop stocks modern ceramics that are great to keep or to give as gifts.
Button Hole: This teeny tiny shop is the best place to pick up cut label designer ‘inspired’ dresses. There is literally only space for one person in the shop and whatever size they have is it, but do check it out, you may find some gems. Corner of Peel & Elgin Streets, Soho
Rabeanco: These beautiful line of handbags is affordable and unique. I'm having a bit of regret over a couple of particularly pretty ones I passed up.
If you're looking for a more authentic Hong Kong shopping experience, the myriad of markets dotted around the city are just the thing for you.
Central
Central Wet Markets: One of the last outdoor produce markets left in Hong Kong. Vendors sell fresh fruits and vegetables, live seafood, meat and all manner of other things. A must do in my opinion. Downhill on Graham Street between Hollywood Road and Queens Road Central
Cat Street Markets: The markets and tiny stalls along Upper Lascar Row offer up a slew of antique (and faux antiques), and are a delightful way to spend an afternoon. Upper Lascar Row (below Hollywood Road), Sheung Wan
Kowloon
Flower Markets: Start at Prince Edward station and head over to the Flower Markets. Try to go mid to late morning to watch the sellers set up. Stop in at Cafe Hay Fever to grab a coffee. Flower Market Road, Prince Edward Station Exit B1.
The Tung Po Bird Gardens: Adjacent to the Flower markets you’ll find the Bird Gardens, a market slash garden where people come to buy pet birds, as well as feed, cages, live insects and all manner of other bird related paraphernalia. Yuen Po Street, Prince Edward (the end of Flower Market Road)
Goldfish Street: This doesn't really qualify as a market, but still worth a stroll in my opinion. Once you’ve finished at the Bird Garden, head back the way you came and take a left onto Tung Choi Street to find the cluster of stores selling pet goldfish. Tung Choi Street North, Mong Kong
Jade Markets: Go and wander the two sets of covered stalls. Be prepared to bargain hard and walk away if necessary. Great for gifts and yourself! Junction of Kansu Street and Battery Street, Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon
Ladies Markets: Knockoff central! If you're on the hunt for a knockoff bag this is the place to come.
{Things to Know}
Get an Octopus card for the metro, Star Ferry and buses. Bonus: You can also use the money you put on it at many stores/vending machines
Although Hong Kong follows many British customs due to its colonial history, people do not walk on the left as you'd expect, its more of a hodgepodge/chaos situation.
Wear comfortable/old shoes. The streets are hilly and uneven, when it rains it pours and its certainly not the cleanest city you've ever been to.
The evening lights across the harbor
Old // New
The Central Wet Markets
Man Mo Temple
Iced tea at Teakha
I don't know who could ride a bike in Hong Kong, but kudos!
I'll take one of each please! Succulents galore at the Flower Market
Fresh blooms for sale
Getting a good view from the Mid-Level Escalators
The Tung Po Bird Gardens
One of Hong Kong's ubiquitous red cabs
My favorite mode of transport: The Star Ferry
Harbor crossing
Endless views from the Twins
Temple Street Night markets
Hanging incense coils
Street side decor
Hong Kong Island under a heavy blanket of fog/smog/clouds