Travel Guide: Tokyo
Tokyo is by far the most frenetic, yet functional place I've visited. It is utterly massive, yet everything just works, and the cultural unfamiliarity somehow only adds to its allure. This was my second visit, yet I think one would need an entire lifetime to really get to know the ins and outs of Tokyo. Here I've consolidated some recommendations, but don't be afraid to do some unplanned exploration to really get to know the city.
We splurged a bit on this segment of the trip and stayed at the newly opened Andaz Tokyo using a combination of credit card points and dollars. Hands down one of the most beautiful hotels I've ever stayed in, though currently the location isn't the most ideal. That said, its close enough to the metro and cabs aren't too expensive.
{See & Do}
You could easily spend weeks in Tokyo and not see all this massive city has to offer. However, most of us don't have that kind of time so I've tried to narrow it down to a manageable list for 4-6 days or so.
Shrines:
The two must-dos are the Meiji Jingu, a gorgeous shrine surrounded by a huge garden in central Tokyo and the Sejsoji Temple which is a large Buddhist temple the outskirts of the city. Founded in 628, this is one of the oldest temples in Tokyo and is a major attraction for Japanese visitors as well. We visited on New Year's eve, which was quite an experience as many Japanese visit Temples and Shrines at the New Year to pay their respects.
Imperial Palace:
Built on the site of the ancient Edo castle is the Imperial Palace, the home of the Emperor of Japan. In order to go inside the gates, you have to book a tour online. If you don’t book a tour, you can just walk around the park area and see a view from outside the gates with a view of Nijubashi Bridge.
Tsukiji Fish Market:
This is an absolute must do. Plus, if Tokyo is your first stop this is definitely one of those activities that works with your jet lag, not against it, as it entails quite an early start. Getting to see the tuna auction is quite difficult, it was completely closed when we were there for the New Year, but if you want to give it a try, check out this site.
If you, like us, just want to have a memorable experience and a really fresh sushi breakfast, I'd say get there around 7am to get in line at one of the minuscule restaurants (and yes, there will be a long line even then). This will mean that you have hopefully finished up around 9am when the wholesale area is opened up to visitors. Sushi Dai or Daiwazushi are the two most famous restaurants, but the lines can get out of control. We ate at Yamazaki which is located between the other two that you often read about and was was absolutely delicious. Note: Do check before you go as the market is set to move to a new location in 2016.
Neighborhoods to Visit:
Ginza, Shibuya, Shinjuku - The most well known, and chaotic areas of Tokyo. They all have high end shopping and tons of options for eating, but with slightly different vibes. Check them all out to see what you think. Don't miss the famous crossing in Shibuya where all the traffic lights at a major intersection turn red at once to allow pedestrians to cross from every direction.
Yanaka - This area is old town Tokyo and is a maze of tiny, winding streets with lots of places to grab a quick bite to eat and shop for souvenirs. Don't forget to peek into the cemetery and park. Also, if you go in the afternoon, make stop at the Yanaka Beer Hall.
Takeshita Dori and Harajuku - You'll want to reserve some time to fully soak in this area of town. The fashion, the strange foods, pink everything... just roll with it. Begin your day at Harajuku Station, almost directly outside the station is Takeshita Dori, there's a large sign marking the street overhead so you can't miss it. On this street you'll pass Daiso, the Japanese version of the dollar store. This is a great place to stock up on sweets, cheap ceramics, washi tape, hair accessories, you name it. You'll also pass a number of crepe stands which sell a dizzying array of crepes stuffed with every topping imaginable, as well as cotton candy stalls, which seem to be to in-thing at the moment. Numerous clothing stores line the street and sell inexpensive logo tees, mini skirts and everything in between. There are even several dedicated to pet fashion! Walk all the way to the end of Takeshita Dori and on the other side of the street, you’ll find the main Harajuku streets to the left and straight ahead. Take the left first and you’ll find lots of amazing vintage and jewelry stores. Wander all the way to the end and then walk back the way you’ve come until you’re back at the crossing with Takeshita Dori, and take a left down onto the other Harajuku Lane.
Omotesando and Aoyoma - These fashion forward neighborhoods reminded me of Brooklyn. Hip boutiques, beauty salons, artisan coffee shops and cafes are all interspersed with high end retail and some really pricey real estate. Be sure to check out City Shop for lunch and Cafe Kitusne for a caffeine fix.
Daikanyama - Another up and coming Tokyo neighborhood, spend an afternoon wandering the small streets and (window) shopping at some really innovative stores.
Golden Gai - Dozens of tiny bars are packed into this lively area beside Shinjuku. Each establishment has its own theme. Pop in for a drink if you see one that strikes your fancy.
{Eat & Drink}
Eating in Tokyo is a major draw as the city boasts some of the world's best cuisine, but it can be a bit of a challenge. You can have a list of recommendations as long as your arm, but actually finding the places is another matter. Signage at street level isn't really standard, nor can you rely on it being in English. Further more, places tend to be hidden inside office buildings and department stores and several floors down or up. I've made some recommendations below, but I also recommend leveraging your hotel concierge as you do need reservations at a lot of places and the language barrier can be a bit difficult if you try and call yourself.
Ivy Place, Daikanyama
City Shop, Aoyoma
Cafe Meji, Aoyoma
Good Morning Cafe, Toranomon
Yamazaki Sushi
Nagasaka Sarasina, Diamaru Department Store
Gen Yamamoto, Be sure to make a reservation ASAP!
Rule number one, make sure you have extra room in your suitcase, or be prepared to buy another one as the shopping in Tokyo is fantastic!
Oriental Bazaar is a well known souvenir shop, though I have to say I wasn't overly impressed with the selection when I went.
Tokyu Hands Shibuya is an unbelievable craft/hardware store.
Chicago, check out the vintage kimono in the lower back corner.
Tsutaya Bookstore at Diakanyama T-Site
Visit Itoya for the most amazing stationary and office supply store you've ever seen.
Pick up all of your favorite food items at Akomeya Tokyo.
For the guys, Hankyu Men's Tokyo is a fun stop and for the ladies there's a great Monocle cafe in the basement where you can have a Matcha latte while your guy shops around.
Department stores in Tokyo are amazing. Don't forget to check out the basement food halls and upstairs restaurants at: Daimaru, Tokyu, Isetan and more.
{Things to Know}
Tokyo is the most well functioning, clean city you are likely to ever see.
The metro is fast and efficient and English signage is everywhere. Same goes for the trains. Get a Pasmo card at a ticket machine and you'll be zipping around the city in no time.
Public restrooms are plentiful, easy to find and amazingly clean, including in the metro stations. But bring your own paper towels or washcloth to dry your hands as there are none.
You won't get thirsty as there are vending machines for hot and cold beverages everywhere. (Try the hot and iced green tea - delicious!) You can also pay at most with your Pasmo card. Though good luck finding a trash can for the empty bottle.
For the New Yorkers out there, don't jay-walk!
Dusk over Tokyo
Matcha please
Tokyo Imperial Palace
A New Year's Eve visit to Sejsoji Temple
Fortune boxes at Sejsoji
Beautiful Kimonos at Chicago
Minuscule bars in Golden Gai
Funky fashion along Takeshita Dori
Crepes!
Meiji Jingu Shrine
Morning chaos at Tsukiji
Trying not to get run over at Tsukiji
Fresh fish on the go
Our gorgeous room at the Andaz Tokyo
Night swims in the beautiful pool at the Andaz