Travel Guide: Marrakech
Marrakech is one of those mythical places that you hear and read so much about prior to arrival that those initial impressions can seem a bit distorted. Is this actually what is looks like or did I see this in a photograph? It is a place that lives up to all if they hype and is yet some how just more everything.
On first blush it is a chaotic, dirty maze of a place that seems absolutely determined to take advantage of tourists in any way possible. Once you get past the initial impressions of whizzing motorbikes, donkey carts, the endlessly confusing streets, the pungent diesel fumes and getting hassled from every single possible direction it is a place with so many different layers to explore. From the brightly colored souks, to the stunning historical sites, to the chic and calm riads, and the flavorful local cuisine it is a place that is worth enduring the surface chaos to discover.
There are lots of places to stay in Marrakech, from uberluxurious places like La Mamounia and The Royal Mansour which sit on garden compounds just outside of the medina (the old walled city) to charming little riads (guesthouses) tucked behind unassuming entrances amid the chaos of the medina. We stayed at the budget-friendly Riad Yasmine which was incredibly tranquil and had just a handful of rooms. They had a great roof terrace for relaxing and the plunge pool in the central courtyard was lovely. Breakfast was included and they did offer dinner though you have to book in advance. I would recommend reserving a room upstairs as we had one right beside the pool and it was a bit loud.
Other great options include the design-forward El Fenn which is worth a visit for the stunning interiors alone and Villa des Orangers which is just outside the medina and a great place for dinner if you don't stay there.
Most of the restaurants in Morocco really cater to tourists as locals seem to mostly eat at home or from quick cafe type places. That said, I don't think we had a single bad meal the entire trip and overall really enjoyed the food.
Cafe Clock, a bit out of the way but a good lunch spot if you're in the area. Frankly I liked the food at the location in Fez better but it may just have been an off day.
Villa des Orangers, we went to dinner here twice. Once just M and I, and once with my parents. The location and decor is to die for and the food is gourmet without being over the top.
Terrase des Epices, loved this place! Try the Moroccan salads to start, the fish tagine and the chocolate pastila for dessert - I'm still dreaming about it!
El Jardin, perfect for lunch while shopping in the medina.
NOMAD, despite our best efforts we couldnt actually make it to the front door as the King was in town and his parade was blocking off streeted. But, I've read a lot of positive things so next time!
Churchill Bar, this famous bar at La Mamounia hotel is definitely worth stopping by for a drink, though it does have a 'big hotel' feel which is a definite departure from the more intimate spaces in most riads.
Rooftop at El Fenn, even if you don't stay here, swing by for lunch on the roof. Grab a glass of Gris (a local extra light rose wine) and the chicken skewers and take a breather! (Tip: El Fenn is located in the medina, but right next to one of the gates to the outer city, making it easy to walk around to your next destination and not back through the maze of the souks).
{See & Do}
The main attraction in Marrakech are the souks in the medina. These really run the gamut from beautiful artisan goods to junk made in China so be prepared to haggle (a lot) and shop around to find the best stuff.
Jemma el Fna is the main square in the medina and should you have a hankering to see a snake charmer, a monkey performer or get a henna tattoo this is the spot. Personally crowds make me very uncomfortable and I have a serious dislike of snakes so I tried to give this particular spot a rather wide berth. We did have to walk through a couple of times in the day and as long as you keep moving at a good pace and keep an eye on who's approaching you everything should be fine. We also had to walk through one night on the way back to our hotel and I have to say I don't really care to do it again.
Outside of shopping Marrakech and Morocco overall has an incredible history and many well-preserved sites. Some of the highlights in Marrakech included: Bahia Palace, Badii Palace, Saadian Tombs, Ben Yussef Madersa, and the Mellah/Kasbah areas. If your schedule permits I would ask your hotel or read to organize a guide to take you through the historical sites. They can provide so much more information than is available to read on your own and worry about directions and getting you around without getting lost!
I would also recommend a visit to the Majorelle Gardens which sit just outside the medina in the Ville Nouvelle (new city) and were famously preserved by Yves Saint Laurent.
Lastly, we did a half day photography workshop with Marc and Veronique which was truly a great addition to our trip. It was so much fun to be able to focus on taking photos and not have to worry about directions or making an error in protocol (see note below on taking photos in Morocco). They also gave great technical instruction and I left feeing much more comfortable shooting in manual.
If the haggling in the souks gets to be a bit exhausting there are a selection of highly curated boutiques that have set prices. Some standouts include: Majorelle 33, LaLa, Downstairs at Terrasse de Epices (not truly 'set' prices but a much more relaxed atmosphere). Most riads and hotels also have gift shops or can direct you to to the best places depending on what you're looking for. Carpets and Berber/Moroccan wedding blankets (like seen below) are popular in Marrakech and seemed to be less prevalent in other places we visited, so if either of these items is on your list get it here.
Do some research on visiting Morocco and there’s a good chance you will come across many reports of tourists getting hassled, feeling taken advantage of/uncomfortable and getting tricked. Yes, it happens, but no I don't think it should stop you from visiting. I truly think that it's just a part of the culture and despite all of the hassling that you should be prepared for I don't think it is meant maliciously. That said, I don't know that I would feel completely comfortable visiting as a female alone, though I think coming with a friend would be ok if you are prepared to be extra cautious. The main square, Jeema el Fna, is ground zero for a lot of the annoying behavior. As I mentioned above, I preferred to avoid if at all possible, but if you want to see the snake charmers, have your photo taken with a monkey, watch the street performers or eat from a (potentially dubious) street vendor this is the place to do it.
Morocco is very hot in the summer and can be cooler than expected in the winter especially in the mountains. I would recommend trying to go in a cooler month (i.e. not summer) as I think it will make for a more comfortable experience overall.
Bartering is big part of the culture and to be expected in most transactions. A general rule of thumb is counter any initial price with an offer ⅓ the original and meet somewhere about ½ the original price.
Taxis are a racket. During the day make sure you insist the meter is on and at night try and agree on the price before entering the cab. We never paid more than the equivalent of $10 for a ride but the prices varied widely.
Bottled water is the way to go even for brushing your teeth. Take care with uncooked vegetables (i.e. salads though they arent all that prevalent,) as well as unpeeled fruit.
Morocco is a conservative culture by most standards and should be respected when it comes to things like dress especially for females. It was chilly when we went so long sleeves and pants were totally comfortable, but even if you go during a warmer time of year, I would recommend loose long pants or a long skirt and covering your arms.
Alcohol is available for tourists but only inside hotels/riads and restaurants and must be sold and served out of view of the public. I really enjoyed the local Moroccan wines which are reasonably priced compared to imported brands.
A word on photos, many Moroccans do not like to have their photo taken so take care when aiming your camera. I actually never felt all that comfortable taking photos in the souks and mostly stuck to historical sites. If someone who doesn't want their photo taken sees you with a camera they will either cover their face or come up to you and demand you delete the photo (or pay them for it).
