Travel Guide: Jerusalem
Jerusalem is one of the oldest, arguably one of the most fought over, and one of the most confusing cities in the world. The Old City of Jerusalem is a walled area roughly one square kilometer in size, and packed into this tiny area are four different religious quarters: Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian, and centuries of history, tradition and conflict.
While there is a sizable population that lives within the walls of the Old City, most of Jerusalem's residents live in the new city or in its sprawling suburbs. For most travelers visiting the Old City is the highlight of a trip to Jerusalem, but I would also encourage spending some time in the newer downtown areas and in particular observing how the locals have made this incredibly famous landmark a part of their daily lives.
{Get There}
If you are doing a day trip from Tel Aviv you can take the 450 or 480 bus directly to the main bus terminal in Jerusalem for about $3. It takes about an hour to an hour and a half depending on traffic. The 480 bus leaves from the Arlozoroff terminal in Tel Aviv and the 450 bus leaves from from the main Tel Aviv bus terminal. Note that the numbers are the same on the return trip as well. You can buy your ticket on board from the driver. The busses run about every 15-30 minutes in both directions. In Jerusalem, the bus station is very crowded, but the 450 and 480 buses board right next to each other on the top level. The signs are a bit of a mess but if you need confirmation that you're in the right place anyone will be happy to help.
When you arrive in Jerusalem you can hop on the Number 1 tram where it stops right in front of the bus terminal to take you to the Old City. There are automated vending kiosks for purchasing tickets, note that you'll need to validate the ticket once you get on.
{See & Do}
The Old City of Jerusalem is very compact and dense. I spent the better part of a day walking around, exploring, getting lost (and sunburned!) and simply taking in as much as I could. You will most likely get more out of it if you hire a guide or join an organized tour, but I read up on background information and history before I got there and was able to do a self-guided tour of sorts and got in most of the highlights. The signage within the Old City is very good so navigating without a guide isn't difficult at all should you choose that route. On a return trip I would most definitely engage an expert to add more color to many of the sites and the history.
Most visitors enter the Old City through the Jaffa Gate on the south-west corner, and this is the closest entrance to where you get off the Number 1 tram. Note, immediately to the right and up the stairs inside the gate is a public restroom. Up those stairs is also the entrance to a stretch of the exterior city wall that you can walk along. Among the sites not to be missed in the Old City are the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Western Wall, Temple Mount, Dome of the Rock, the Cardo, Mount of Olives and Gethsemane. For a phenomenal view of the Western Wall, climb up Ha-Kotel Street which runs parallel to the entrance to the Western Wall complex, and to the roof of the Colel Chabad Free Kitchen where there is a free viewing platform.
Additional Jerusalem must-dos include: the Mahane Yehuda Market and the Yad Vashem museum. Yad Vashem is out of the city a bit, but you can take the Number 1 tram all the way to the end (Mt Herzl stop) and walk from there.
{Eat & Drink}
Stop by Lina in the Old City for hummus and the Kadosh Cafe Patisserie in downtown Jerusalem for an afternoon sweet.
{Things to Know}
I visited Jerusalem on my own and never once felt unsafe, though you can sense the tension that runs through the city. The only time I was a bit taken aback is when I was walking through the Old City and attempting to pass through a portion of the street and was confronted by a female soldier who was standing with two other male soldiers. She asked my faith and then informed me I wasn't allowed into that section of the city. I don't know if this is actually true but I wasn't in a position to argue.
{What to Pack}
Jerusalem gets very, very hot. Pack a hat, long sleeves and plenty of sunscreen and water. Ladies you will want to make sure your shoulders and knees can be easily covered for entering some of the religious sites.
