Travel Guide: Tel Aviv
For a country that is so frequently in the the news, Israel has somehow always felt very remote to me. Even as my plane was descending into Ben Gurion airport I really couldn't quite envision what to expect. Would have Tel Aviv the same grit and frenetic energy of other cities I'd visited in North Africa? What about the booming tech scene be like? And what about the cultural, political and religious tensions? During my visit I found that there really is no one way to describe Israel or Tel Aviv. Both the country and the city are incredibly complicated with layers upon layers of history and context.
Everyone I met was fantastically welcoming, and embodied a shared sense of pride in their country and their heritage. The country has a rich professional sector and yet manages to find balance and an incredible pace centered around the enjoyment of family, friends and food. While I I certainly can't claim to have found any answers to the complications within the region, I came away from my trip with a new appreciation for this undeniably beautiful country and those who call it home.
{Get There}
If you are coming from the U.S. there are several direct flights to Tel Aviv from New York daily, and service from other major cities/airport hubs. Otherwise there are connections through Europe. This is likely a somewhat common refrain heard when planning a trip to Israel, but you must leave extra time for security at the airport on both the outbound and return trip. Be especially sure on your return to the U.S. that you have plenty of time at the airport as security is very through and takes quite a bit of time.
Ben Guiron airport is located between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv and both cities are easily accessible via taxi, bus and train connections. The taxi fare to and from Tel Aviv to the airport is flat, but note that there is a higher rate on Friday and Saturday.
Tel Aviv is not a large city and hotels in the center city tend to book up quickly. First order of business when figuring out where to stay, is to decide if you want to be near/on the beach, or closer to the main part of town which is slightly more commercial. The second is to decide if you want to stay in a larger brand-name hotel or a small boutique. Airbnb and rentals are another good option. New hotel properties seem to be opening quite frequently but here is a list of current popular spots.
The Norman
The Dan
Browns Tel Aviv
David Interncontinental
65 Hotel
NXY Hotel
Market House (Jaffa)
{See & Do}
Beaches - Tel Aviv is known for its beaches and every local you ask will give you a different answer as to which is the best and why. SecretTelAviv has a good guide to help you find your ideal spot.
Camel Market - A somewhat routine fresh market situated in the heart of downtown Tel Aviv, but well worth a stroll to watch the locals haggle with vendors and to ogle the vibrant produce.
Rothschild Blvd. - If Tel Aviv has a main street this is it. On the weekend and during after work hours this tree lined boulevard is packed with locals of all ages strolling, sitting on the grass, stopping for coffee and drinks at the kiosks situated along the way or dining at the restaurants that line the edges.
Jaffa - The ancient port city of Jaffa is the southern most part of modern Tel Aviv, and the oldest part of the city. Spend a day wandering the port area. Be sure to take in the views north to modern Tel Aviv and wander the flea market and stop for a bite to eat at one of the many open air restaurants that line the streets of old Jaffa or have been developed along the waterfront.
Bauhaus Architecture - Tel Aviv is also known as The White City due to its more than 4,000 Bauhaus or International Style buildings that were built by German Jewish architects who migrated in the 1930s. The Bauhaus Center runs tours and has resources for self-guided explorations.
Neve Tzedek - This is the oldest neighborhood in Tel Aviv, and in recent years has become a mecca for avant guard fashion and design shops.
{Eat & Drink}
Lumina - This restaurant in the Leonardo Hotel is right on the water and features some standout dishes. I loved the herb and gem lettuce salad and the eggplant carpaccio.
Ha'Achim - I tried this spot after it came highly recommended by a colleague and friend and was blown away by the food. When I mentioned to a colleague based in Tel Aviv the next day that I had gone for dinner, they reaffirmed that it's one of the best spots for authentic, un-fussy food. I'm not a huge fan of dining solo at a full service restaurant but this was a truly delightful experience from start to finish.
Miznon - This burgeoning global franchise started in Tel Aviv and while I didn't make it on this trip, I've been to the Paris outpost twice and can only presume that the food in at this location is even more delicious.
Puaa - This hotspot in Jaffa is very buzzy and offers some fantastic people watching. Try and snag a table outside and stay for a while to soak in the atmosphere.
Bicicletta - Popular, casual spot for drinks and snacks off Rothschild Blvd.
Anita Gelato - Ice cream and frozen yogurt are incredibly popular in Tel Aviv and this spot does not disappoint! For non-dairy eaters there are also plenty of flavors for you as most shops have a Kosher selection.
Dizengoff Street - This is Tel Aviv's main shopping street and is lined with everything from international brand names, to emerging Israeli designers.
{Things to Know}
Many parts of Israel observe the Sabbath and while Tel Aviv doesn't adhere as strictly as Jerusalem, most things are closed from sundown Friday until sundown Saturday (or do not open at all until Sunday). This means grocery stores, restaurants, a lot of public transportation options, museums and more. You may even struggle to get room service in a hotel.
Public transit in Tel Aviv is a work in progress and traffic can be hectic. Uber isn't that widespread but there is a very similar competitor called Gett that works the same way. Download the app and you can program in where you are headed in English when ordering the cab. Most cabs you hail off the street will accept credit cards but double check if you are short on cash.
The currency in Israel is the Israeli Shekel, but credit cards are accepted almost everywhere except in markets and at street stands.
{What to Pack}
Tel Aviv isn't a formal city and dress codes are generally really relaxed. The climate ranges from temperate to very hot depending on the time of year so plan accordingly! Also, I found the normal air conditioning indoors to be quite strong so bring a sweater if you get chilled easily.
