Travel Guide: Paris
Paris is never a bad idea, and when you find crazy affordable tickets over a long weekend in February, the only answer really is 'Yes!'. When a rare snow storm hits the day before your arrival and the flakes continue to fall, the city transforms into something even more magical (though admittedly a bit messy!).
{Get There}
You know the drill, most international flights arrive at CDG (Charles de Gaulle) which is a chaotic mess of an airport if there ever was one. Summon your patience and prime sign reading skills and make your way to the train station. The RER train will take you into downtown Paris in no time at all and is much less expensive than a taxi. One you're in Paris its up to you, (and how much luggage you have), if you want to continue to your hotel via Metro or get off and grab an Uber. Just note that they seem to have removed many of the automated ticket kiosks in the major transit points such as Chatlet, which resulted in us not-so-gracefully, battling an onslaught of no-nonsense rush hour Parisians to find a ticket counter to buy a book of Metro tickets. C'est la vie.
There are no shortage of accommodation options in Paris and over the years we've tried all manner. Large, brand name hotels, small boutique hotels, Airbnb/apartments etc. Each can be great depending on what kind of trip you're having. This time we chose the Hotel Providence which I stumbled across on Instagram an age ago and immediately bookmarked for its uber-chic design and prime location. Located in the 10th arrondissement it was convenient to just about everything we wanted to do and had a great vibe for a romantic weekend away. With just 18 rooms it felt very intimate and the service and details were top notch. Also of note, I believe each room is different and ours (42) had a bright yellow and white bathroom if you're a color fan!
{See & Do}
Whether its your first time to Paris or your tenth, there is always something new to do, and when in doubt, aimless wandering, people watching and cafe hopping are somehow wholly satisfying activities. This trip we visited some old favorites and checked out a few new-to-us spots.
The Pompidou Center has both amazing architecture and art. Probably impossible to time, but being inside during a snow storm was really surreal given the futuristic architecture and the views from the exterior escalators were stunning.
Le Palais de Tokyo we arrived after it closed for a dinner reservation at the newly re-done onsite restaurant Les Grand Verres, but the building was lovely and its on my list to return to next time.
MAD (Musée des Arts Décoratifs) is part of the Louve complex but seemingly under the radar, as it was virtually empty on a Saturday in February. The collection isn't completely overwhelming and I'd classify it as a 'must-do' for any interior design and fashion fans. In a similar vein, another favorite is the Musee Palais Galliera depending on what exhibitors are on.
BNF Richelieu is one of the main buildings in the national library complex and a quick walk from the rear exit of the Palais Royale. The main reading room is truly jaw dropping, though without a library card you can only peak in.
Le Bon Marche department store in St Germain is a must do for ogling some fantastic fashion and checking out the current art installation.
{Eat & Drink}
Again, so many good spots, old and new, and never enough time to enjoy them all! A few highlights from this visit included:
Les Grand Verres in the Palais de Tokyo is a design dream and the views of the Eiffel Tower are unbeatable. I'm still thinking about the baked pear dessert!
Bistro Paul Bert is M's favorite for all things steak.
Mizon makes it on my must-eat list every trip! Embrace the chaos and get the cauliflower. Tip: the sauces are self-service and are on the table by the kitchen. Try them all!
Fragements for coffee + breakfast. This place is super tiny so I'd get there when they open at 10am to get a table without a wait. I'm still dreaming about the mandarin orange and chocolate cake I inhaled for breakfast. Nothing like a little sugar rush to get you through a long day out in the cold!
Du Pain et des Idees, this bakery is amazing! Buy a few pastries and wander the nearby canal while you enjoy them. Also, Ten Bells is just across the canal and serves up some fantastic coffee to go with your carbs.
LouLou is inside MAD, and makes a great post-museum lunch spot!
BigMamma Group has a small chain of casual Italian places that super popular right now, we went to OberMama as we were jet lagged and it opened the earliest but I think they are all pretty similar from a food point of view. Note that at the OberMama location you can go early (6pm) and put your name in and hang out at the bar until they start seating at 7pm.
Maison Aleph in the Marais for beautiful Middle Eastern inspired pastries.
Frenchie To Go for breakfast sandwiches.
Peonies is hands down my favorite cafe/coffee/flower shop anywhere.
Shopping in Paris is always something to leave plenty of time to enjoy, there is just something about the merchandise, presentation and service in the stores that is above and beyond anything in the States. Tip: January and early February are prime sales time, with the end of year sales (Soldes) in full swing so be sure to plan accordingly!
Three favorites that I always check out as they are either unavailable or much more expensive in the US:
Alain Figaret
COS
Massimo Dutti
This trip I purchased my first piece of (nice) jewelry for myself, and just an observation that the experience in the branded store was far-and-away superior to the service in a high-end department store that also carried the brand I was looking at. After visiting the branded shop, I was hesitating a bit so we ventured over to one of the large department stores thinking that they might be able to do all of the VAT refund there, thus making it beneficial to make the purchase there and take care of all the paperwork. Well, that turned out not to be the case and the experience at the boutique in store was a bit frenzied and lacking. I was still on the fence about the purchase at that time, but after a bit of thinking and walking we returned to the original branded shop to complete the purchase, and I have to say it was truly an experience! Though I had to laugh as from the start it was clear I was purchasing the item for myself, I clearly paid, and yet at the end of it all they handed the bag to my husband!
{What to Pack}
I always have a lot of fun packing for Paris, I feel its a place to really lend itself to some creativity on the fashion front, plus everyone is so chic, you have to work just a little bit harder to blend in! For this trip I went with lots of black layers at is was pretty cold, some fun accessories, and a trusty red lipstick. Tip: if you go in winter, consider leaving the puffer coat at home in favor of a wool top coat and leather boots.
