Travel Guide: Mexico City

As far as first impressions go, the sheer size of Mexico City, or CDMX, is what struck me first. Hardly surprising given that it is the largest city in the Americas, but with nearly 22 million people it ranks up there among the largest globally. The second and third things that hit in rapid succession were the traffic (cliche yes, but it really is an issue) and third, the smog and grit. While this likely paints a somewhat bleak picture it shouldn't because underneath the general urban chaos and slight but ever-present feelings of disfunction and division, this city is one of color and warmth, optimism and movement. 

Despite the many challenges CDMX is facing there is something about it that just gets under your skin, and like many large cities, once you find your places it is truly a phenomenal place to explore and enjoy. 

{Get There/Get Around} 
Most major U.S. and international carriers fly non-stop to Benito Juárez airport. The airport is woefully over capacity and is in what seems to be a fairly permanent state of construction and disruption until the new airport opens (slated for 2020). 

As far as getting around CDMX goes, the best piece of advice I got when planning our trip was to take Ubers - everywhere. I didn't really believe how inexpensive or common they were, but in our week there we took 22 Ubers for just over $79 USD. I'm generally a public transit fan but the metro lines aren't laid out all that conveniently and it really just wasn't worth the hassle. 

 
There are plenty of brand name hotels in CDMX which depending on what you are looking for and the time of year may be a very good option. We stayed at the Hyatt Regency in Polanco which I would classify as 'in need of a renovation', but overall it was completely fine and the deals were good. If you're looking for something a little less corporate-y I would look at Hotel Condesa DF, Nima Local House, Hotel Hippodrome. 

{See & Do}
Neighborhoods
Roma & Condesa
Polanco
Coyoacan
Reforma & El Centro (Downtown)
San Angel 

History
Zocalo
The National PalacePalacio de Bellas ArtesPalacio de Correo
Chapultapec Castle
Bosque Chapultapec

Art
Soumaya Museum
Street Art Chilango Tour
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Frida Kahlo Museum
Museo Jumex
Franz Meyer Museum
Casa Estudio Luis Barragan (Tip: arrange tickets online well in advance)

Outside the City
To vist Teotihuacan we arranged a car/driver through our hotel. There are plenty of organized tours you can take but I wanted to go early to avoid the crowds. We left at 8am and were there just as the park opened at 9am. It was getting very crowded when we left a few hours later and even though it was January there is zero protection from the sun so plan accordingly. 

Plaza del Ángel market (weekend only)
Jamaica Market (flowers)
La Mercado Merced (gourmet food)
La Ciudadela
Taxonomia (Carlota Hotel)
Fabrica Social
Anatole 13
Onora
Common People
Trinitate 

{Eat & Drink} 
You could easily do nothing in CDMX other than eat! There is everything from very upscale dining to highly popular street carts and food markets. I won't even begin to try and assess the best places for typical dishes but below are most of the places we tried plus a number that were recommended but that we didn't make it to. One tip would be on the reservation front. Most higher-end places you needed a reservation for, most were on Open Table. 

(Fancy)
Pujol
Quintonil
Biko
MeroToro

(Mid)
Rosetta
Contramar (seafood)
Lardo (breakfast/lunch)
Carlota Hotel (drinks /dinner)
Condesa DF 

(Casual)
Ojo de Agua (great juice/smoothies/salads!)
El Moro Churreria (cult churro favorite) 
Panaderia Rosetta
Lalo (brunch)
Bravo Loncheria (lunch) 
Cafe Negro (perfect place to stop before the Frida Kahlo house)
Eno