Travel Guide: Paris with kids
Paris can feel a bit intimidating with a baby or toddler, but with a bit of prep and some expectations management, it can truly be a wonderful trip for everyone. Sure, it will not be the same type of visit to Paris as it would be during a romantic weekend getaway or a trip with friends, and it will take a bit more logistical effort than some other locations might require, but it is doable and it can even be a really enjoyable experience for everyone.
{Things to Know}:
There is a lot of info out there about French culture and kids and especially how some of the norms and practices differ from those in America (this book is a great primer), but in my experience kids are incredibly welcomed except in places that aren’t really for kids, i.e. fine dining establishments, upscale retail boutiques, some museums, fancy hotel lobbies, etc. I think if you keep these rough parameters in mind, and are willing to shrug off the occasional disapproving glance in the wake of a meltdown, Paris can very much be for families and kids.
Be prepared to schlep. While Paris is a fairly compact city, you should be prepared to walk. A lot. And if you have kiddos who aren’t walking yet or are in the stroller/walking stages you should just be ready to help them over for uneven streets, cobblestones, stairs, and unfortunately around a general lack of accessibility. This is true at the airport (CGD) too, where elevators are often tucked out of eyesight, are too small for a family with a stroller, and are poorly signed. Just pack your patience and comfy shoes.
More on this below, but if you want to eat in a true restaurant or a bistro (vs a cafe or brasserie), know that most don’t start seating for dinner until 7 p.m. or after. If you need an earlier lunch look for someplace that offers “service continu”, or all-day dining.
Public restrooms in Paris are scarce and changing facilities are even more scarce. Large hotels and department stores are the best bets for clean, accessible facilities and changing areas. Most restaurant restrooms are either upstairs or downstairs which means you will have to navigate an often dark and twisty staircase in both directions with your little one to use the facilities. That said, in a pinch, cafes are great for potty stops. You don’t need to wait to be seated at a table, rather you can just plop down at one and one parent can stay with your stuff and order a coffee and the other can tackle the restroom.
Grocery stores and pharmacies are very prevalent and have just about anything you could need on the baby/kid front. Just know that many in the city center are smaller “daily” style outposts (Carrefour City and Daily Monop for example) and may not have a large selection. Look for full-size stores for a larger selection. Bio c’ Bon and Naturalisima are organic/natural food stores that have great baby sections as well.
{Stay}: There are two main routes you can go when looking for accommodations - hotel or apartment. Both have pros and cons, but if you want a bit more space, a bit more of an authentic experience and potentially a better deal on your accommodations I would recommend choosing an Airbnb or other apartment rental when traveling with young children or a family. If you decide to go that route I find there are two paths you can take to find a place that works for you: you can search by criteria (number of bedrooms, amenities, etc.) or you can search by location and narrow it in from there.
On our latest trip, we stayed on the border of the 11th and 12th arrondissements and loved the area, especially with kids. There were tons of kid-friendly cafes, grocery stores on nearly every block, and plenty of parks. Metro access was quite good too, but you are a bit farther away from the main sites. So if it is your first trip to Paris and you want to be closer in, or you prefer to avoid the metro/bus/taxi situation with young ones you might want to say in a closer arrondissement. Other great arrondissements with kids are the 8th and 16th.
Other apartment rental resources: Paris Perfect and Kid & Coe also have great apartments at varying price points and offer a more curated selection than Airbnb.
Many apartments either will have or can arrange a crib or Pack ‘n Play for you, but if you want to rent other gear, Babytems looks to have a good assortment.
{Eat & Drink}:
Cafes are open all day. They are mostly for drinks and quick snacks but you can make do for a meal in a pinch if you aren’t too picky about menu selection.
Brasseries are also open all day and typically have more complete menus than cafes.
Bistros are typically only open at lunch and dinner and don’t serve continuously through the afternoon. The food is more elevated than in a brasserie.
Restaurants are generally the fanciest category of dining establishments. Open for dinner and sometimes lunch, food is the focus in restaurants.
Boulangeries are also a good option for breakfast and light lunches. Many will have an assortment of sandwiches in addition to bread and pastries and most have coffee and some drinks available as well.
Grocery stores and pharmacies are plentiful. Two of the more common chains are Carrefour and Monop. You’ll see smaller format stores tucked in just about everywhere across the city and larger format shops on major shopping thoroughfares. They do have a wonderful selection of prepared food and will often sell or have utensils available so you can easily pull together a picnic on the fly. Pharmacies are also everywhere and can be identified by their flashing green cross signs out front. Some are quite small, but many products are often kept behind the counter so don’t hesitate to ask if you can’t find something.
CityPharma in St Germaine is one of several discount pharmacies around the city and if you are looking to stock up on beauty products is definitely worth the stop. It does have several floors so I’d have your partner or travel companion hang out with the stroller while you fill your cart. Tip: Pierre Herme is just around the corner if you need a macaron fix after battling the crowds for the latest La Roche Possay sunscreen.
Tips: high chairs aren’t super prevalent so if you absolutely need one I would bring a cloth one like this. Or if your kiddo can sit in a chair but just needs a boost many cafes will have cushions they will gladly bring you. Some places definitely cater to kids and have kids selections on the menu and coloring, but it isn’t the norm.
For more info on what to pack with young ones, check out these posts:
{See & Do}:
Walking exploration: In my opinion, this is one of the best things you can do with kids in Paris. You can follow a guided walk, there are lots online, or you can join a group if you have a very little one with you who won’t mind being toted around or one who is a bit older and would enjoy some of the commentary, or you can pick a neighborhood (arrondissement) and set off on your own. We found that by dividing our day around naptime and picking an area with a few things we wanted to see and do for the morning and afternoon time blocks we were able to see a lot and not feel like we were running ourselves ragged from site to site.
Museums: Of course, some of the biggest attractions in Paris are the museums. There are so many that it can feel a bit overwhelming, but depending on how many times you’ve been to Paris before and what your interests are there is likely a museum or two that will pique your interest! Some of the more well-known museums include the Louve, d’Orsay, Rodin Museum, Pompidou, Picasso, Marmottan-Monet, Louis Vuitton Art Foundation, Carnavalet Museum, the Catacombes and so many more. One that I always like to check out in advance and see what exhibits are on display is MAD Paris. We also visited the Atelier Lumieres with our daughter and had a wonderful hour inside.
Parks and playgrounds: Check out this post for a map with all of the best parks, playgrounds and carousels in Paris.
Seine cruises: We booked a Batteaux Marche Seine river cruise and it was a delightful way to spend a morning. The cruise itself is about 75 minutes and makes a long, slow loop of the river, taking in some of the largest sights. Honestly, there is commentary that plays in several languages but it is quite hard to hear. So if you want a bit more history while cruising I would pull up a guide online that you can follow along with. Otherwise, grab a few snacks and sit back and enjoy.
{Shopping:} Obviously luxury shopping and beautifully decked-out boutiques are a major draw in Paris but they are often small making a stroller a bit tricky and this is one place where the clientele and staff may not always appreciate the energy of a toddler. But it wouldn’t be a trip to Paris without a bit of retail indulgence and with young ones in tow department stores are the way to go. Larger spaces, elevators, clean restrooms, cafes, kids’ sections…
La Samartaine: newly renovated and very upscale, but worth a quick tour
BHV Le Marais: This was my first time visiting the store but it is in a very accessible location (the metro is accessible in the basement), and it was so.much.fun. Less fashion-forward than some of the others, but lots of home goods, kitchenware, half a floor dedicated to arts and crafts, a large kids selection, and perhaps the most fun, the basement level is the most wonderfully curated Home Depot you’ve ever seen.
Galleries Laffayette
Printemps
Le Bon Marche
