Travel Guide: Paris
Oh Paris in spring! Yes, it is lovely, but if you are planning a trip you also need to prepare yourself that it may rain, a lot. Weather challenges aside, I just returned from a wonderful week in Paris with my Mom. We try to do something every year for Mother's Day/my birthday as they are very close together and this year we decided to head to Paris.
We rented this
via Airbnb and it worked our really well for the two of us. Just enough additional space that we could spread out and not be in each others hair constantly. Given that it was just the two of us, with no men in tow we wanted to spend our week doing things that wouldn't necessarily be as entertaining for our normal travel companions (read: lots of art and shopping). I've linked a couple of the highlights from our stay below. If you have any questions or are looking for recommendations give me a shout!
Things to Do:
Marche Puces aux Clignancourt
A visit to the largest flea market in Paris was at the top of my list, but it honestly made me a bit nervous. Start reading the Trip Advisor reviews and you think you are going to Timbuktu or something. But I did a bunch of research and found some great resources on how to actually get there and we made it just fine. We had an absolutely fantastic day here, but there are a few things to keep in mind if you are planning a trip. The market(s) at Clignacourt are open Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Hours vary by day so be sure to check. Excellent directions can be found
. Once you get off the metro at Clignacourt look for the underpass with the black circles and just keep walking. We didn't have any issues when we arrived at about 11:30am, but on the way back at 4pm the pickpockets and street vendors were out in full force around the metro so just be careful.
With regards to the actual markets (marches) themselves, there are many different/specialized ones within the broader Clignacourt market. Details on some of what each market specializes in can be found
. I fell in love with a couple of Louis-Phillipe style mirrors as well as a pair of early 19th century living room chairs. I'm sure I could have arranged shipping, and I am sure I will be kicking myself in short order, but I walked away from both purchases. My mom on the other hand did really well at some of the vintage jewelry shops. Really, really fun.
I was also a bit worried about lunch, but
in the Marche Paul Bert was phenomenal. By the time you get that far into the market, you will be in sensory overload, so treat yourself to a glass of rose and the ratatouille with poached egg and sit outside in the sun and relax.
Foundation Louis Vuitton
Much has been written about this new addition to the Paris art scene so I knew I wanted to make a trip to check it out. All the info can be found on the
, but while it may say that opening hours are from 10am on, the museum really doesn't open until noon so don't make the same mistake we made and end up waiting for an hour and a half at a local cafe to escape the torrential rain. I thought the current exhibit,
Keys to a Passion
, was phenomenal, but the real star was the architecture. Oh, and the lunch in the museum cafe. Have the lemon tart, you won't regret it.
Palais Galleria
Neither my Mom nor I had ever been to the
which is a slightly sleepy but incredibly well curated fashion museum not too far from the Trocadero. They only host temporary exhibits and we saw the current exhibit featuring
. Highly highly recommended if you can make it before it closes, and if not, I'm sure future exhibits will be equally wonderful.
Musee Picasso
The
was literally right behind our apartment and made a great stop our first afternoon. I really had no idea how prolific an artist Picasso was, and seeing an entire (beautiful!) space dedicated to his work was fantastic.
Canal St Martin
A bit off the normal tourist path, this
located just to the north east of central Paris was constructed by orders from Napoleon and connects the Canal de l'Ourcq to the river Seine. Great for a morning walk and conveniently located near Du Pain et des Idees and Ten Bells coffee (below).
And walk...
We also managed to rack up close to 45 miles of walking in a week! We also did some off-the-beaten-path exploring in St Germain, Le Marais and Montmarte.
Where to Shop:
Yes, we have it in the states but its so much cheaper there.
Ditto. Also my mother will never live down her incredibly dedicated quest to get these
.
For the men in your life. Just go, don't look at the prices and buy them a couple of shirts. Or, if you want to really get in trouble take a look at the women's section. I walked away with a fantastic trench.
The high-end H&M. A bit chaotic, but some really good pieces.
Yes, maybe predictable, but their candles are just so good.
Vintage. Mainly Chanel and Hermes.
Where to Eat:
Small plates and cocktails. Make a reservation or go early and be prepared to sit downstairs.
Quick and cheap Israeli spot in Le Marais. Get the cauliflower and a couple of fish sandwiches.
Now famous eclair spot in Le Marais. Really cool flavor combos.
Out of the way spot for lunch in Montmartre. Great for people watching. Equally good food.
The best eggs.
Just go. And while you're at it, cross the canal and get a coffee at
The most perfect cafe on the Il d' St Louis. Have a Kir or some Lillet and think of me :)