Travel Guide: Provence
Provence has been at the top of my travel wishlist for ages so when we started talking about a trip in late May it immediately became a top contender. We had a little less than a week, which after visiting, I would say is on the very short end of of the time you need to really see Provence and get a feel for it. The area is quite large and while the distances between towns aren't that great on the map, the roads are small, and parking always takes longer than you think it will! In late May the temperatures were still quite mild, we just had a few warm(ish) afternoons and the winds were somewhat incessant but from what we gathered from locals they are a year-round fixture. Shoulder season is likely the best time to visit Provence, I would avoid peak summer due to the heat and crowds. The famous lavender does not bloom until late July or August so if you want to be there for that you will likely need to be prepared for the downsides of peak season.
{Get There/Get Around}
We took the Ouigo train directly from Charles De Gaulle airport to Avignon. You can also take it all the way to Aix-en-Provence and even to Marseilles should you wish you start your trip on the southern side of Provence. There is also TVG service which is likely a bit nicer but is considerably more expensive. We spent two days in Avignon before returning to the train station and picking up a rental car so we could see the countryside and visit the smaller villages of Provence. As always, we rented the car through Gemut to ensure we could get an automatic and a good rate. Unless you are doing a tour that includes transportation you really do need a car to get to the smaller towns in the countryside, but if you just want to see Avignon and Aix-en-Provence you can take the train between the two and do it without a car.
In preparation for the trip I did quite a bit of research to find out which hotels we wanted to stay at - there are too many lovely options to count! It seemed like a good approach and I was very excited about all of the beautiful options I had found until we discovered that many were either sold out, we later learned we were there over Mother’s Day weekend in France, or had two to three night minimums which didn't work well for such a short trip. But in the end we were able to find some really delightful spots. We spent two nights in Avignon at No. 15 which was absolutely lovely, one night in St. Remy-en-Provence at the beautifully restored La Maison du Village, and two nights outside the town of Uzes at Maison d’Ulysses which is a true labor of love for a charming French/Belgian couple. Other spots I wish-listed for a return visit include Chateau les Alpilles, La Bastide de Marie, La Mas des Poiriers, and of course if we are really dreaming, Crillion le Brave.
If you are going with a larger group I would strongly consider renting a villa somewhere centrally located so that you can easily get to all of the villages you want to see and don’t have the hassle of needlessly moving in and out of small hotels with increasingly complicated parking logistics!
{See & Do}
The most quintessential parts of Provence are its small hillside villages which are located in the Luberon area: Gordes, Menerbes, Apt, Roussillon, Bonnieux, St. Remy-en-Provence, L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, and the list goes on. It is a place that lends itself to slow exploration and long leisurely drives through the countryside. The distances aren’t particularly long so you can easily see a couple of villages in a day but the roads are small and parking can be tough.
Avignon is a walled city on the Rhone River and the oldest parts of the city are surrounded by ramparts. Don’t miss the Palais des Papes, home to seven popes in the 14th century! You can get a combined ticket to also see the Pont Saint-Bénézet or the Pont d'Avignon as it is more commonly known.
Just outside of Avignon is the Pont du Gard which is an incredibly well preserved ancient Roman aqueduct. It has been turned into an outdoor park and appears to be equally popular with local families looking to picnic and swim as it is with tourists.
{Eat & Drink}
The food is a delight full stop but a couple of highlights:
Chateau les Alpilles
La Bastide de Marie
Le 46 Avignon
Each town has its own market days which are truly a delight for the senses. One of our favorite things to do is to pick up ingredients for a picnic lunch or dinner and find a beautiful spot to enjoy it in. This site outlines the days that each town has its market. Beyond food, woven straw baskets, perfumes and soaps made with lavender, linens and other home goods are easily found in most markets and towns. In Aix-en-Provence, check out Bastide for the best natural perfumes and body products. I purchased the Figue sent for myself and it instantly transports me back!
{Things to Know}
Even in late May the days are gloriously long. We couldn't get over how light it was until 9 pm and beyond. It is also very windy so bring a hair tie!
{What to Pack}