Travel Guide: Ortesi, Italy and the Alpe di Suisi

We have a deep affection for the Alto Adige/ Sud Tirol /South Tyrol region of northern Italy that so beautifully blends Italian, German and Austrian cultures. This was our third visit to the area, you can see travel guides from previous trips here and here (though eek, 2016 post is a bit cringe worthy!) and each trip we have discovered  something very different which has enticed to return again. This trip we decided to center our adventures around hiking the Alpe di Suisi / Seiser Alm. In late October the colors were unbelievable and while some chair lifts and many of the mountain huts and amenities were closed for shoulder season, the crowds were virtually non-existent.  

{Get There}
To properly enjoy the area you do need to rent a car, though we did do one trip just taking the train but you are more limited to the areas you can access that way. 

Adler Resorts in Ortisei - This is a small local group of spa hotels and we found it to be truly lovely. Not super fancy or stuffy like some spa hotels but definitely wellness-focused and thoughtful. They have several properties throughout the region including one up on the Alpe di Suisi! That was a bit too isolated for our preference but their property in town was right at the foot of the funicular to get up to the plateau. We stayed in the Balance property which is adults only and a bit more upscale than the classic hotel, though  the spa facilities are shared. We were also under the impression that it was half-board (breakfast and lunch included) but on our second night when we were exhausted from a hike and wanted to eat in the hotel we were surprised when the maître d' directed us to our reserved tabled and expressed surprise that we hadn't had dinner the evening before!

We found the hearty breakfasts, the beautiful buffet lunches and the gourmet dinners to be a very pleasant surprise. The only additional charges were for wine which was very reasonably priced. They had a good selection of local wines and champagnes which were fun to try. I also loved the baskets of local apples that were placed around the property and found myself grabbing a few each time I passed one!

We also took advantage of the spa, booking a package that included a facial, massage, wrap and time in the salt grotto and sauna. While some treatments were better than others in my opinion it was a good value and an overall very relaxing experience. The property also boasts an indoor/outdoor pool as well as a number of saunas and steam rooms. Just note that the hours do differ depending on the season.

{See & Do}
Thee area is known for its stunning landscapes, year-round hiking and winter skiing. There are countless hikes in the area, but during our stay in Ortesi we did the Alpe di Suisi,  and Seceda. Alpe di Suisi doesn’t require a lot of preparation and can be as long or short as you’d like it to be. We simply took the gondola up from the base in Ortesi and hiked around on the plateau for several hours before returning down to the base. In peak season there are plenty of huts and small restaurants scattered across the plateau so finding a place for a brief break isn’t an issue. Some things were closed while we were there. Also note that the Adler Hotel group also has a property up on the Alpe di Suisi which we looked at but I’m glad we ultimately didn’t choose as it is very remote.

Seceda requires a bit more planning especially during shoulder season when the gondolas aren’t running. It was an intense several hour hike up to the top and back down again and I would only attempt it in good weather but the views were unreal. Note that you can park at the ski lift and there is a fairly large parking lot there. Don’t make the mistake we did and park in town and walk a mile to the trailhead!

If you have a bit of extra time, the St. Johann Church in Santa Magdalena is worth the drive for the stunning juxtaposition of the small chapel against the massive Dolomites behind it. 

{What to Pack}