Travel Guide: Madrid
{About}
One of the grand cities of Europe, Madrid reminds me a bit of Washington D.C.’s hipper, more elegant and more authentic cousin. They share sweeping boulevards and grand municipal buildings, stately parks and a distinct neighborhood orientation. Madrid is quite large but also fairly easy to navigate and get around. Like the rest of Spain, it has a unique social and gastronomic culture -- far later than most of us from North America are accustomed to!
{Stay}
There are all of the big brands and plenty of apartment rental options in Madrid as well as some interesting boutique hotels. We stayed at the 7 Islas Hotel which was very conveniently located and had one of the best designed rooms I’ve stayed at in a while. I did find the lobby a bit cold and uninviting and the front desk staff wasn’t terribly warm or helpful but neither were deal breakers.
{Eat}
Gran Clavel: Conveniently located right off the Calle Grand Via this restaurant has several establishments in one: bar/coffee shop, cafe and a restaurant that is open in the evenings only. The food was nothing overly memorable, but the prime location and well-designed interiors make it a good place for a coffee break or quick snack.
Café Plantate: A great spot for brunch! This tiny spot is tucked into the Lavapies neighborhood and the staff is really accommodating and the food is tasty. It is also located relatively close to the El Rasto flea market (see below) making it a good stop to fuel up before a morning of bargaining!
El Huerto de Lucas: Organic food market and bistro conveniently located in a great shopping area.
La Pescaderia: Fish-forward tapas bar. You want to make a reservation to sit in the dining room but if you hang out at the bar until the kitchen opens they will serve you the full menu there.
Ultramarinos Quintin: This sister restaurant to the highly recommended and very popular Amazonica (they are actually across the street from each other) does not disappoint for a nice dinner.
Bodega de la Ardosa: This traditional tapas bar is everything you hoped for and more in a tapas experience. {Tip}: go at an off time, between say 3pm and 6pm so ensure you get a seat and can be guided in your selection by the staff. Otherwise it is incredibly packed and boisterous and figuring out where and what to order and where to try and sit will be tricky. The artichokes and cod/potato casserole were outstanding. For another traditional tapas experience, check out El Minibar.
Ana La Santa: This is a great spot for a regenerating lunch after a morning full of museums. Located less than ten minutes from the Prado and Thyssen museums, this airy spot is the perfect place to grab a bite and catch a second wind.
Federal Café: My favorite cafe in Madrid. The salads, juices and coffees are all fresh and tasty and the quiet square is a lovely place to linger with a book or over a good conversation.
Mercado San Miguel: This bustling high-end prepared food market is a must do in Madrid. {Tip}: Take a lap before deciding where you want to start, most stalls sell a variety of small plates. Also, be prepared to eat standing up and get a bit jostled during peak times.
Tasca Celso y Mano: This tiny spot serves up some delicious food. Favorites included the tomato tasting menu (yes, really!) and omelet.
Casa Gonzales: This picture perfect tapas joint/deli is a delicious and low key way to get your tapas fix. It’s also a quick walk to Cardomomo if you are sneaking in a flamenco show (see below).
Roots: Perfect for a healthy breakfast or snack stop.
Frutas Prohibidas: Made-to-order juice and bowls
Other restaurants that came highly recommended that we didn't make it to:
La Trainera
Bibo Dani Garcia
Sala de Despiece
Olivia Te Cuida
Gracias Padre - Taquería
Estay
Ten Con Ten
StreetXo
Fishmuler
Taberna la Carmencita
The Passenger
Bar Tomate
Club Matador
Bocadillo de Jamon y Champan
Propoganda12
Panic Bakery
{Coffee and Sweets}
Cafe Angelica: Not far off of the Calle Grand Via, this tiny (just two tables and a handful of counter stools) coffee shop serves delicious roasts and has a selection of coffee and spices to purchase including some lovely gift sets.
Feliz Coffee: The outside is an instagram delight.
Hola Coffee: A delightful place to stop for some caffeine before tackling the Reina Sofia museum.
Chocolatería San Ginés: This Madrid institution serves up churros con chocolate (6 churros and chocolate for €4.50. Order at the counter and take your ticket to a table and your order will be brought over to you. Pro tip, don't linger, the tables turn over quickly!
{Drink}
Terrace at Hotel de las Letras: Right off the Calle Grand Via, this rooftop bar offers a great place to grab a drink with view over Madrid
1862 Dry Bar: Stop in for a Vesper or cocktail of the day.
Rooftop Bar at the Círculo de Bellas Artes: For an iconic view over Madrid, make a reservation at the Azoteca Circulo. {Tip}: if you don’t make a reservation and want to go up to the viewing deck its €5 a ticket.
Vacaciones Cocktail Bar: Pretend you are at the seaside and enjoy a summery cocktail right in the heart of Malasana.
{Do}
Catedral De La Almudena: Madrid’s cathedral was begun in 1879 but wasn't completed until 1933, giving it an interesting mix of architectural styles ranging from Neoclassical to Neo-gothic and Neo-romanesque. The interiors and stained glass are unexpectedly modern and bright.
Palacio Royal: Even if you aren't typically a fan of palaces, this one is a must-do in my opinion. The exterior alone is incredibly impressive and the interiors are simply stunning and much bolder than your typical palace decor in my opinion. The palace is still the official residence of the Royal Family of Spain although they only use it for state ceremonies now.
El Rastro: This enormous flea market is open on Sundays only and is home to lots of junk but also some fun finds if you are willing to dig a bit. It spills over into several streets so be sure to take your time wandering around.
El Retiro Park: Madrid’s version of Central Park, this urban green space covers XX area right in the center of the city. Don’t miss the Crystal Palace which was built in 1887 to showcase plant life from the Philippines which at the time was a Spanish colony.
Temple de Debod: This was a gift from Egypt and is a beautiful spot to catch the sunset.
Plaza Mayor: This is the main square in Madrid and its sheer size makes it worth a stop.
Calle de la Cava Baja: This street is packed with restaurants and bars. A good place to peruse if you’re looking for a bite.
Flamenco show: Going to a flamenco show is a very popular thing in Spain and particularly in Madrid. There are numerous restaurant/clubs that have shows several times a night across a wide variety of price points. We went to a show at Cardomomo which was named best flamenco in the world by the NYTimes. Casa Patas and Corral de la Moreria also come highly recommended.
{Museums}
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía: This museum specializes in 20th century Spanish artworks and while the architecture was stunning, the collection itself was not my personal favorite. Of note however, Picasso’s Guernica is on display and is a cornerstone of the collection. We also found the lack of signs and floor plans to be incredibly frustrating and found ourselves quite turned around on a number of occasions.
Museo Del Prado: The largest and most famous museum in Madrid, the Prado houses an impressive collection of European art from the 14th to 17th centuries.
Thyssen-Bornemisza: This personal collection turned public museum was my personal favorite of the three as it focuses on 19th and early 20th century works including some outstanding impressionist works. {Tip}: Buy a Paseo de Arte ticket to get into all three.
Museo Cerralbo
Royal Tapestry Factory
Museo Sorella
Matadero
{Yoga}
Zentro Urban Yoga: This beautiful studio just north of the Retiro has a full schedule of classes and even offers classes in English a few times a week.
{Other}
Shave Barbers and Spa: Getting a haircut or a hot shave is a bit of a must-do in Madrid for the gents. This place serves up both along with their own line of products.
{Shop}
Kikekeller
Loewe
Malababa: Fashion accessories and buttery soft shoes
Panta Rhei
Casa Gonzalez & Gonzalez
Faraday: A funky vintage record store
Rughara, Malsana
Antigua Casa Crespo: Visit for handmade espadrilles
La Fabrica
Cacto-cacto: Where all your cacti dreams come true