Travel Guide: Rome

{About}
Rome is one of those Benjamin Button cities that never seems to age. Yes, it is ancient(!), but it also feels new and different each visit time you visit. It is however, a place I would typically avoid during what I consider to be “peek” summer travel season - Memorial Day to Labor Day - however, the unprecedented travel year of 2021 afforded some unexpected flexibility and we were able to revel in a nearly tourist-free Rome.

{Get There/Get Around}
Almost everything in Central Rome is walkable. However, some sites are a bit farther afield and you may want to tackle public transit or hail a cab. (Download the ATAC app to buy tickets and get route info.) The cobblestone streets are incredibly charming but also pretty unforgiving on the feet (and on strollers). This is definitely a time for practical and comfortable footwear and plan for plenty of water and espresso breaks at shady cafes. The sun and heat can also be unforgiving in the warmer months so I’d recommend arranging your days around the early morning and evenings. The streets are also fairly haphazard and can be hard to follow until you get your bearings. For easier navigation, you can “save” where you are staying and the places you are planning to visit in Google maps and then download the map for offline viewing while you have access to Wifi (there isn’t a lot of reliable, public Wifi in Rome or Italy for that matter). Most major tourist sites are pretty well signposted.

{Stay}
Hotels in Rome are generally fairly expensive. In the past we’ve stayed at the Hotel Lunetta which was super chic and had a great location. (Note, as of July 2021, it does still appear to be closed post-pandemic). The Hotel RIci, Hotel de Russi and Hotel de la Ville and G Rough are all small, luxury properties with great reviews.

This time around as we were traveling with a baby we opted for an Airbnb. We stayed in this apartment which was in a fantastic location and was perfect for us with two bedrooms. Two notes: there is an elevator in the building, but there is a half flight of stairs up to get to it - something keep in mind if you have a stroller. There is also some noise from the street at night due to a restaurant right down the street. That said, I definitely recommend it.

{See & Do}
There are no shortage of guides to the most popular sites to see in Rome but here are a few of my favorites:

  • The Pantheon

  • Colosseum and The Forum

  • Piazza Navona

  • Borghese Gardens and Gallery (you must book tickets in advance for the Gallery and no large handbags or strollers are allowed, so unless your little one is walking well or small enough for a carrier I would save it for another time. That said, it was very much a highlight for me on this trip.)

  • Vatican City

  • Testaccio Market - go early when the vendors are setting up and get a breakfast buffet of fresh fruit and bread and an espresso and watch the market come to life.

  • Jewish Quarter

  • Galleria Doria Pamphilji

  • Janiculum Hill

  • Palentine Hill

  • Neighborhoods to explore:

    • Monti

    • Prati

    • Trastevere

    • Testaccio

{Eat & Drink}

Central:

  • Il Goccetto

  • Assunta Madre

  • Guilio Passami L’olio

  • Gelateria del Teatro

  • Armando al Pantheon

  • Ginger

  • Ristorante Nino

  • Vitti dal 1898

  • Roscoli e Antico Forno Roscioli

  • Piperno

  • Pasticceria Boccione

Monti:

  • Spritzeria Monti

  • Miio’s Street Food

  • La Casetta a Monti

Prati:

  • Sciascia Caffe

  • Romeo Chef & Baker, Prati

  • La Palpa Roma

  • Enoteca Costantini

  • Pescaria

{Shop}

  • Antica Manifattura Cappelli

  • Gente

  • Chez Dede - so chic it almost hurts and your wallet will hurt too but very much worth a browse

  • Guincart - woven basket heaven

  • Antica Cartotecnica

  • Castroni - this is where you buy all your food products with the always discerning Romans, don’t be taken in by the spice mixes and pastas you find at various markets around the city

  • c.u.c.i.n.a

  • Atelier Bomba

  • Kokoro

Europe, ItalyDanaComment